I have something to confess. I didn’t know what good ramen was. Before you grab an effigy of me to burn on a pike, let me explain. Firstly, I know what good food is. I don’t take a bite of a sandwich and spiral into a black hole of existential self-doubt. Secondly, I know what I like. I generally enjoy most flavours and textures. With that said, ramen has always been a blindspot of mine. Sure, I’ve had it countless times, usually picking up the bowl to sip the last remaining dregs. To me, it all tastes the same. I might be the worst person to give a ramen review.
With a brand-spanking new Yellowbelly, I decided to figure out for myself what precisely I’m looking for in a ramen. To work it out, I thought it best to start at the very top. I picked a spot that is synonymous with ramen for Sydneysiders. I went to Crows Nest to try ‘Ryo’s Noodles’ (Ryo’s).
With Ryo’s, the experience starts in the car. If you’ve driven down Falcon St, you’ve definitely spotted the iconic orange facade situated next to an apartment building and a petrol station. Finding Ryo’s in my Suzuki Swift was the easy part. The parking proved to be trickier. Realising I couldn’t simply pull up to the front, I “casually” cranked the steering wheel to the left, finding myself in a random residential street. Defining a good spot really depends on how far you want to walk. Luckily we ended up only about seven minutes away. Putting on my paper thin jacket and lacing my New Balances tight, we began the journey to Ryo’s. Strolling down Crows Nest on a spring evening, I couldn’t help but feel grateful to live in the second most expensive city in the world. With a sentimental tone, I whispered to myself, “Only in Sydney,” as a gust of pollen flew into my face and attacked my sinuses. As we approached Ryo’s with slightly puffy eyes, the next challenge lay ahead.
One thing I know for sure I don’t like about ramen is the unavoidable line you will find yourself standing in. Arriving at any ramen joint after 6pm is a trial of hunger and patience. We got there at around 6:45pm and waited for roughly twenty-five minutes. All things considered, it wasn’t too bad. Yet as I stood, feeling the breeze from the wake of passing cars, I couldn’t help but question whether this was all worth it. Before I could decide, we were called in.
When developing my ramen criteria, I considered how ambience and interior design would factor into the overall experience of the meal. In this case, the vibe at Ryo’s may be the secret ingredient. As you step inside, you can see the decades of history reflected in the decor. The daffodil-yellow walls are adorned with menus that have been handwritten with a Sharpie on what appears to be butcher paper. The furniture shows signs of wear, a testament to the thousands of people who have sat down and rested their elbows on the same tables. Every blemish and scuff has been earned. The room that night was buzzing with family, friends, and a few couples all casually chatting away. I want to give special mention to the woman opposite us who had the patience of a saint, listening to her Hinge date yap about his boring day. If you’re reading this, queen, I feel for you.
Now, let’s get down to business: the ramen. I ordered the pork and fish broth with soy. The dish arrived with noodles, nori, spring onions, fried onions, and an egg with a yolk so jammy it would make your favourite Insta-foodie blush. Additionally, there were two pieces of chashu that looked as if they were cut from a dinosaur’s leg. The ramen was delicious but I found myself wondering if it was better than any ramen I had experienced before. Did this bowl have an x-factor that I would use to compare to other bowls in the future? In my opinion, it did.
When I’ve had ramen, the flavors often meld into a generic, greasy tonkotsu taste (my skin doesn’t mind all the collagen). However, Ryo’s ramen manages to balance all the richness while allowing each individual ingredient’s flavour to stand out. The fattiness of the pork and the brininess of the fish paired perfectly with the sharpness of the onions. There was enough complexity here that my taste buds never got bored.
As an aside, I also ordered their famous meat bun and dipped it in the broth. I wouldn’t say this is a must when visiting Ryo’s, but I would be lying if I said it wasn’t kinda great.
What am I looking for in ramen? Ryo’s gave me my answers. Vibes and flavours. I feel that this is just the start of my ramen journey. Where will it take me? A side street in Shinjuku? Artarmon station? I’ll let you know when I get there. 8.9/10
Photos by Johanna Ng.
